Lip Neutralisation 101: Pigments, Tips & Training
For a long time, individuals with dark, hyperpigmented, or melanin-rich lips were often considered unsuitable candidates for lip blushing treatments. However, with the growing popularity of Lip Neutralisation, this is no longer the case. This advanced lip tattooing technique has opened the door for more inclusive and effective solutions within the world of Permanent Makeup!
Melanin-rich skin, hyperpigmentation, injuries or certain skin conditions can all contribute to certain individuals having darker lips or discolouration, and Lip Neutralisation is an excellent choice for clients who want to achieve brighter, lighter and more even-toned lips.
What is Lip Neutralisation?
Lip Neutralisation is a highly specialised Permanent Makeup treatment that requires advanced expertise in colour theory and pigment selection. The process involves using advanced techniques to effectively neutralise cool tones, even out varying tones in the lip tissue and effectively lighten dark lip tissue.
Who is suitable for Lip Neutralisation?
Lip Neutralisation is for any person with variations in lip tone or has darker areas on their lips who want a more balanced overall lip colour, typically those who are classified as Fitzpatrick 3 and up on the Fitzpatrick skin tone scale.
Here are examples of lips before Lip Neutralisation:
Here are the incredible healed results after Lip Neutralisation:
Popular Pigments for Lip Neutralisation
Colour theory and pigment selection are key when neutralising lips, using the wrong colours during this procedure can result in causing the lip tissue to not change or even make the lips appear darker. Neutralising unwanted tones consists of using warm tones to correct the darkness, colours such as yellow, orange and red tones are commonly used for this treatment.
Hanafy Dark Lip Neutralisation Pigments
Carolina Alfonzo - a Hanafy Premium Partner has been an expert Permanent Makeup Artist since 2012, and together they have created these four amazing shades.
These pigments have been carefully crafted and tested to shift hue, saturation, and value on clients with very dark and cool lips. The unique formulas are warm with only the necessary amount of titanium dioxide to neutralise and balance the darkest lip tones, ensuring ideal coverage and visible results from the first session.
Caracas No.1 - A warm orange pigment used for neutralising cool tones on melanin-rich, dark lips. This is best suited for use on lips with purple undertones. Use alone or in mixes to add warmth and brightness.
Medellin No.2 - A bright orange based pink pigment best used on dark brown lips with medium saturation and value or for use in the second session to add a warm pink finish. Use alone or with mixes to add warmth and pink vibrancy.
Barcelona No.3 - Light in colour but dense in opacity this pigment is used for neutralising cool tones on dark lips with high saturation and value. It has a perfect balance of white and orange and can lighten very saturated lips to make them warmer, without adding too much titanium dioxide.
Miami No.4 - A bright and very warm colour based on two organic red pigments. Use for creating pink and red shades. Use on its own or as a booster to add colour intensity to mixes.
Want to learn how to use these pigments? Click below for the 35 minute in-depth YouTube video with all the information you need!
Perma Blend LUXE x Carla Ricciardone Embody Pigments
Carla Ricciardone collaborated with Perma Blend Luxe to create the Embody set, specifically designed for cool-toned and dark lips. This set is the perfect foundation for all lip neutralisation treatments, providing precise colour saturation, even blending, and long-lasting results.
This set includes four base colours, three modifiers and a colourless adjuster, all shades are mixable and perfect for all levels of neutralisation from from very cool purple tones to warm browns!
Tips and Advice
Working with dark, melanin-rich lips is always a challenge, and the key to success is choosing the correct neutralisation pigments! Hanafy has created this general guide below with tips for correct pigment selection.
Remember to set client expectations
With the right techniques and colour selection, you may see great results after just one session, however, it can take multiple sessions to reach your client's desired result. Upon healing after each session, there may still be areas that still need neutralising.
Generally, the darker the lip tissue, the more sessions required. You must explain to your clients to trust the process and set your client's expectations, making it clear it can take a number of sessions to reach their goal. This will mean you won't leave your clients disappointed if they don't see their desired outcome after one or two treatments.
Taking photos is key
Taking photos is an absolute must for any treatment you are performing, but with Lip Neutralisation, it's more important than ever! This treatment can often require more sessions spaced out, generally 6-10 weeks apart, clients may forget how much progress they've made over time. Documenting each stage with clear, consistent photos not only showcases the results but also provides reassurance and peace of mind for your clients throughout their journey.
Want to learn how to master the Art of Lip Neutralisation?
Choose our private 1-2-1 Melanin-Rich Lip Neutralisation Training - an intensive, hands-on 2-day training program, designed to equip you with the knowledge and skills needed to confidently perform Melanin-Rich Lips treatments and achieve flawless colour and results every time!
The private training is led by a world-class Permanent Makeup Artist from our sister brand Tracie Giles Permanent Makeup who has been personally selected by Trace Giles herself to deliver the highest standard of education. This your chance to learn from the best in the industry!
Click here to get in touch with our training team today!