Tracie Giles: How To Create The Perfect Brows

With over 25 years’ professional aesthetic experience, Tracie Giles is a global leader in Permanent Cosmetics & Aesthetics. She has been called the 'Queen of Brows' by the media and has created beautiful bespoke brows for some of the most famous celebrities in the UK. 

Dedicated to helping the next generation of Permanent Make Up & Microblading Technicians she has written a quick step-by-step guide to creating the perfect brows! 

Step 1: Client Prep

This stage of the procedure is so important for a positive client experience! Take clear before pictures and apply a topical anesthetic to the treatment area to minimise any discomfort for the client during the treatment. The anesthetic will take about 20 minutes to kick-in, so use this time to complete any consultation forms and to get to know your client and their brow goals & inspo! 

Step 2: Pre-Drawing

Make sure the area is clean, dry and make up free before you start your pre-drawing. This step is crucial for hygiene but also because any oils on the skin can affect your stretch and ultimately the end result! Apply your ID Liner Brow Measures or use your preferred measuring technique to map perfect, symmetrical brows, then start pre-drawing! Make sure that you take your time, your pre-drawing will be your template to follow when tattooing so it is essential that it is right. I use our ID Liner PMU pencils as they sharpen into a super precise point so I can draw realistic hairstrokes, and they work on both wet and dry skin. I also always use a white pencil to create a clear, crisp outline! Once both you and your client are happy with your pre-drawing take a picture so that you have evidence of what has been agreed with the client. 

Step 3: Pigment Selection

Understanding colour theory and your client's skin type is absolutely key to picking the right pigment and combatting any unwanted warm or cool undertones. You also need to consider your client's desired results and their age (softer colours often suit older clients). If you are unsure try before you apply by swatch testing your pigments on your client's forehead using a cotton bud. I use our Colour Trend pigments- long-lasting, colour-dense and suitable for both machine work & microblading. 

Step 4: Pick Your Tool

Perfect brows can be created using either the microblading or digital tattooing method. For most permanent makeup technicians their chosen method is down to personal preference or training. I use a combination of the two techniques - microblading to create hairstrokes and a softer brow front, with digital tattooing used for shading. Whichever method you choose it is important you use the safest, highest-quality tools available. 

Step 5: Make It Permanent

Your client is prepped, your pre-drawing is perfect and you've chosen your pigments and tools - now it's time to make it permanent! Follow your pre-drawn template, being careful not to smudge your design on the first pass. You can then use your first pass to guide you through the rest of the treatment. Don't forget to apply numbing cream throughout the procedure to make sure your client stays comfortable throughout. Careful stretching, the right depth and a slow, steady speed are most important! Once you have finished the treatment cleanse the area with our pigment cleanser - it is soothing for the client and smells fabulous! If you're new to Permanent Makeup or Microblading it is important that you train properly before performing treatments - we offer free training at my ID Liner Training Academy. 

Step 6: Aftercare & Re-touch

So you've created the perfect brows...but how can you make sure that they stay perfect? It's important to remember that permanent makeup is a two-stage process, and your client must have a retouch within 6-12 weeks for long-lasting results. They also need to look after their brows properly, which is why I created our PMU Aftercare range for you to resell to your clients - to lock in pigment and speed up the healing results!